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Oolong
China does not allow its sacred gardens to be strolled
through by anyone other than workers in that garden. Sacred
gardens produced tea which at one time was only allowed to be
touched by the human skin of the Emperor. All others wore silk
gloves. These sacred gardens still exist. Still produce tea. The
Emperor has been replaced by high-ranking party members,
high-ranking central government officials, high-ranking
provincial government officials, high-ranking bureaucratic
officials, etc. Teas, particularly Green and Oolong teas, fall
into the category of Sacred Garden teas. Not all of
them, of course, but some of them. These teas are not shipped out
of China or, by extension, Formosa. Some of the teas I will
mention were, literally, smuggled out of China. Peoples
lives were put in jeopardy to make them available. Smuggling into
or out of China is a capital offense.
Oolongs or semi-black teas can be in the most
expensive teas in the world category or in the least
expensive category or anywhere in between. They run the full
gamut of price structure. The very best are, of course,
Sacred Garden. The teas in the next category down are
called Artesanal meaning that the tea is harvested
from only a few trees and processed in the ancient China method.
Some teas in either grouping can fetch several million dollars a
pound on the private market.
Oolong is a semi-oxidized whole-leaf tea. The tea liquors
to a color between pale cherry and deep red. It is a refreshing
beverage and produces a flowery aroma. Some are more refreshing
and flowery than others, with low quality grades being toward the
bitter end with a blackish tea liquor color. The leaf is always
large (bulky) and whole (lower grades are pieces) and should take
on the shape of dramatic forms (the many shapes of dragons or
other mythological creatures, insects, animals, fishes, birds,
etc.). The leaf should unfold in the pot as a morning mist
unfolds and covers the valley. China Oolongs undergo a 20%
oxidation while Formosa Oolongs undergo a 60% oxidation. Do not
let the names China and Formosa throw you off: remember, Formosa
was once a province of China and many of the tea manufacturing
processes used in Formosa originated in Fujian Province and thus
both methods are used in China proper today. Therefore, Formosa
refers to two things in the tea industry: (1) a process, and (2)
a growing region. An Oolong which is 60% oxidized but which is
grown and processed in China is called FORMOSA OOLONG.
Water with which one prepares Oolong is very, very
important. Remember, tea is nothing more than colored and
flavored water: true, it contains vitamins, minerals, tannin
compounds and other ingredients helpful to the human diet, BUT it
is essentially flavored water. Oolongs should be made with a
calcium-free water. Free, also, of extraneous odors. A neutral
bottled water recommended for new babies is ideal but not always
available. In my home, I filter all my water through an
Aqua-Vitae Water Filtration System and I am pleased with the
results (this is not an endorsement just the result of many trial
and error hours I have devoted to finding an agreeable water with
which to prepare top end Oolong tea).
I, personally, infuse semi-black teas for 7 minutes;
however, I hasten to add that this time period is and must be
flexible dependent upon the semi-black tea one uses. Also, upon
ones personal preferences. Remember, we are all different.
We all have different flavor perceptions. Also, the water
temperature at the time of infusion should be approximately 185
degrees. The water should first be brought to a 10 second boil
and then allowed to cool down. The free floating oxygen should be
given a short period (the 10 second boil) to boil off in the form
of gas, otherwise the teas flavor will be diminished.
Imperial Oolongs represent the top end of the Oriental
Beauty or Black Dragon teas. They liquor up Amber in color and
are many times simply called Amber Oolong. They are
highly aromatic with a slight Chestnut/Honey flavor.
Grand Pouchong is a China Oolong with a golden color, light
aroma and somewhat subtle flavor which, once found, is seldom
forgotten.
Ti Kuan Yin (Iron Goddess of Mercy) liquors up to a lighter
Amber than Black Dragon but has a more highly-developed aromatic
quality, mild flavor but does not have a Chestnut/Honey
after-taste.
Tung Ting is rooted in the China Oolongs of the past from
the Fujian Province but now grows only in Formosa. The liquor is
more orangey-red and has a mild flavor. It is not one of my
favorites; however, I have cupped some superior Tung Tings
which I enjoyed.
Prepared by and property of:
"The Tea Man"
May not be reproduced in whole or in part without written consent
of: "The Tea Man"
Copyright © February 1996
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