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Oolong

China does not allow its sacred gardens to be strolled through by anyone other than workers in that garden. Sacred gardens produced tea which at one time was only allowed to be touched by the human skin of the Emperor. All others wore silk gloves. These sacred gardens still exist. Still produce tea. The Emperor has been replaced by high-ranking party members, high-ranking central government officials, high-ranking provincial government officials, high-ranking bureaucratic officials, etc. Teas, particularly Green and Oolong teas, fall into the category of “Sacred Garden” teas. Not all of them, of course, but some of them. These teas are not shipped out of China or, by extension, Formosa. Some of the teas I will mention were, literally, smuggled out of China. Peoples’ lives were put in jeopardy to make them available. Smuggling into or out of China is a capital offense.

Oolongs or semi-black teas can be in the “most expensive teas in the world” category or in the least expensive category or anywhere in between. They run the full gamut of price structure. The very best are, of course, “Sacred Garden”. The teas in the next category down are called “Artesanal” meaning that the tea is harvested from only a few trees and processed in the ancient China method. Some teas in either grouping can fetch several million dollars a pound on the private market.

Oolong is a semi-oxidized whole-leaf tea. The tea liquors to a color between pale cherry and deep red. It is a refreshing beverage and produces a flowery aroma. Some are more refreshing and flowery than others, with low quality grades being toward the bitter end with a blackish tea liquor color. The leaf is always large (bulky) and whole (lower grades are pieces) and should take on the shape of dramatic forms (the many shapes of dragons or other mythological creatures, insects, animals, fishes, birds, etc.). The leaf should unfold in the pot as a morning mist unfolds and covers the valley. China Oolongs undergo a 20% oxidation while Formosa Oolongs undergo a 60% oxidation. Do not let the names China and Formosa throw you off: remember, Formosa was once a province of China and many of the tea manufacturing processes used in Formosa originated in Fujian Province and thus both methods are used in China proper today. Therefore, Formosa refers to two things in the tea industry: (1) a process, and (2) a growing region. An Oolong which is 60% oxidized but which is grown and processed in China is called FORMOSA OOLONG.

Water with which one prepares Oolong is very, very important. Remember, tea is nothing more than colored and flavored water: true, it contains vitamins, minerals, tannin compounds and other ingredients helpful to the human diet, BUT it is essentially flavored water. Oolongs should be made with a calcium-free water. Free, also, of extraneous odors. A neutral bottled water recommended for new babies is ideal but not always available. In my home, I filter all my water through an Aqua-Vitae Water Filtration System and I am pleased with the results (this is not an endorsement just the result of many trial and error hours I have devoted to finding an agreeable water with which to prepare top end Oolong tea).

I, personally, infuse semi-black teas for 7 minutes; however, I hasten to add that this time period is and must be flexible dependent upon the semi-black tea one uses. Also, upon one’s personal preferences. Remember, we are all different. We all have different flavor perceptions. Also, the water temperature at the time of infusion should be approximately 185 degrees. The water should first be brought to a 10 second boil and then allowed to cool down. The free floating oxygen should be given a short period (the 10 second boil) to boil off in the form of gas, otherwise the tea’s flavor will be diminished.

Imperial Oolongs represent the top end of the Oriental Beauty or Black Dragon teas. They liquor up Amber in color and are many times simply called “Amber Oolong.” They are highly aromatic with a slight Chestnut/Honey flavor.

Grand Pouchong is a China Oolong with a golden color, light aroma and somewhat subtle flavor which, once found, is seldom forgotten.

Ti Kuan Yin (Iron Goddess of Mercy) liquors up to a lighter Amber than Black Dragon but has a more highly-developed aromatic quality, mild flavor but does not have a Chestnut/Honey after-taste.

Tung Ting is rooted in the China Oolongs of the past from the Fujian Province but now grows only in Formosa. The liquor is more orangey-red and has a mild flavor. It is not one of my favorites; however, I have cupped some superior Tung Ting’s which I enjoyed.

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