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China Teas

(A General Article on China Teas)

China is second only to India in the production of tea. It manufactures green, semi-black, black and (in a lesser amount) brick teas. In addition to the many provinces which produce recognizably named teas such as Keemun, Yunnan, Fujian or others (refer to map of China) there are hundreds and hundreds of districts (called hsiens) within these provinces, each producing teas with names having nothing to do with a province; such as, Dragon’s Well (uong Ching) or Lu Mu Dan. Even more confusing, China teas may simply be classified by the season of picking (refer to solar picking seasons), by personal name, etc. It requires great perseverance to navigate through what appears to be a tea name maze but once accomplished, never forgotten.

The black teas of China were, and still are to many people, identified as Congous teas. Congous was then sub-divided into two segments: North Congous and South Congous.

Identification of Congous origin is made simple in that North Congous tea brews up black tea liquor while South Congous tea brews up red tea liquor. Also, visual identification of the dry leaf or wet leaf is possible since the leaves themselves have a black or red cast to them. North Congous teas have been called the burgundies (*1) of the China teas and the South Congous teas have been called the clarets (*2). This tremendous difference in taste between the congous teas is due to the soil and climate conditions indigenous to the two regions. The above comparison between China Congous teas and French wines is an old one and most current authors of tea books still refer to them as though they were valuable tidbits of information---they are not.

(*1) Let me examine THIS reference to wines, as I see it. The comparison is confusing and carries with it absolutely no definition in the relationship between tea and wine and the way in which we perceive the flavor. Burgundies can be either red or white; therefore the color comparison has no value. Burgundies can be a Beaujolais or Chablis. The flavor characteristics of Burgundy wine are such that it may be excellent with foods ranging from beef to goat cheese. China is neither a major beef nor goat cheese consuming society and thus this comparison loses its luster.

(*2) Let me examine THIS reference to wines, as I see it. This comparison is also very confusing in that it carries with it absolutely no definition in the relationship between tea and wine and the way in which we perceive the flavor. Claret is a Bordeaux and is a light red wine that is excellent with lamb, grilled turkey and many French cheeses. China does not consume a great deal of lamb, grilled turkey or Camembert, Brie or Roquefort cheese.

The Tea Man

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Copyright © November 1999